So... Where was I? Oh yeah. Egypt and porn.
Filthy porn - no good. Travel doco - good.
Have we got that straight? Perfect.
Stop number one in Cairo was a whirlwind. It went fast. But we weren't too worried about it because we knew we would be back there in a week or so before heading over to the Sinai peninsular.
After the interesting journey overnight by train from Cairo to Aswan we set out to uncover the secrets of this city to the south along the Nile.
If Sharm El Sheikh is likened to the Gold Coast of Australia (which it is not - but much prettier and not as many Japanese tourists) then Aswan would be comparable to Phillip Island (without the penguins for obvious reasons).
Big, relaxed, country town feel with historical sights as far as the eye can see. (Phillip island does not have any historical ruins for those who were about to pack their bags).
The people were of stark contrast to the capital. The majority were Nubian. Tall strapping men who's ancestors settled in the region in the fourth century before their kingdom collapsed and was divided between Egypt and what we now know as Sudan.
There was a strong sense of respect from Egyptians to the Nubians that could be noticed on the streets. This was their home and the Egyptians were temporary visitors, albeit for the last five hundred years. It's unfortunately something you do not see in many other cultures around the world, such respect to the traditional land owners.
As an Australian this resonated with me as it has taken us hundreds of years to even say sorry, and even so it was said in an under the breath way that only politicians have mastered the art of.
But enough about our issues this isn't a political story.
In my opinion, best felafel in Egypt? You have to go to Aswan. Probably the touristy version but who cares. It tasted like crunchy fried amazingness and they even stacked them with French fries as well as all the trimmings. Yum.
But if Aswan is not most famous for the felafels, it is most likely because it is the gateway to Abu Simbel, yet another unfathomable historical sight of Egypt. The middle of the night three hour police escorted convoy is almost half of the excitement of this day trip, yet I managed to be stuck on the bus with an inconsiderate newly pregnant girl who continuously had to stop the bus to vomit or pee in the middle of desert hijacking territory.
There were certain parts of this town where you can walk around and not see another foreigner for an hour, surprising for a country that sees over thirteen million visitors through its gates each year. But it is blissful to walk around submerged in the local life. Like you are leaving no impact, except for the occasional stare from an old lady who is wondering who the white guy is walking around looking like an idiot with a smile on his face.
Another church, another ruin site, tea and shisha with a group of newly made friends at the markets. We smoked hashish. Talked about life at home, our favourite travel stories and a few went off to purchase Egyptian souviners that were actually made in China.
I'm not quite sure if it was the haziness or a true reflection of my feelings but I actually really liked it here. I felt like it was a place I could live.
Along the markets we found stalls selling huge mountains of spices including a pile of saffron that back home would fetch quite a number of thousands of dollars, an amount that this vendor would possibly not see in a year but most of us would make in a month. A blacksmith making keyrings and neck charms that supposedly say your name in hieroglyphics, certain that the one that I was forced to purchase actually translates to 'jerk' or some other four letter derogatory term. You know? Like that craze we all went through where we had to have pointless Japanese words that made no sense on our t shirts and tattoos?
Anyway I am getting off track here again...
The next evening we set off on a felucca ride on the Nile. Our captain cooked, we had beers, we laughed and sang. We visited a Nubian village at night and witnessed a traditional wedding before heading into one of the elders place to find out how they live and have a coke (cola). That night I had one of the most restful night sleep on board. The sounds of the Nile lapping at the side of the boat, music and the sound of cars in the distance, one guy snoring like a pig digging into a pail of scraps. It was blissful. No it actually was. I would recommend this to anyone who visits Egypt, even if only for one night.
Submerge yourself in their way of life wherever you may be. Use their transport, eat what they eat, smoke what they smoke. Your experience will be much grander because of it. Every time you politely say ‘no thank you’ to an experience you are giving away something you may never have the opportunity to try again. Travel isn’t about the number of sights you see, or the volume of photos you take. It is about the journey, and experiences are part of the journey.
To be continued.